Day One ... an introduction to New Orleans

The whirlwind trip began at Louis Armstrong Airport in New Orleans. Louis and a pantheon of jazz greats in a mural by Richard Thomas greeted our visitor. The gift shops are stocked with Mardi Gras merchandise in honor of the season.

This is home ... but we had a few more stops to make before we got there.
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From the airport, we toured the Lower Ninth Ward both to see the remnants of Hurricane Katrina and the revitalization of Brad Pitt's Make it Right Project. It did not seem appropriate to photograph either the damaged houses or the new houses of private families. You can read about the Make it Right neighborhood here.

We meandered back to Tremé for lunch at Li'l Dizzy's. We didn't think to take pictures, but you can catch the flavor, if not the aroma, if you click here.

From Li'l Dizzy's we went to the Backstreet Cultural Museum to introduce our guest to the magic of the Mardi Gras Indians. In a small building that once served as a funeral home, there are some knowledgable people and an amazing display of tradition and artistry.

Most of the regalia in the museum was made by New Orleans Mardi Gras Indians. This headress and beaded dress with geometric designs was made in Africa and donated to the museum. In the photos, parts appear to be felt or other cloth, but in reality, both items are solidly covered with tiny beads. Click on the pictures to see the details.

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When the Indians hold memorial funeral parades, the departed are represented by icons that represent their life.

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The most amazing exhibits are regalia from prior years. Each year the Mardi Gras Indians create a new parade costume. It is an all-year project. With the headresses, boots and other bits covered with beads and sequins, the costumes are very heavy.

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The skeleton costume is worn by a special group of Indians who are reviving an old Tremé neighborhood tradition.

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During our wanderings this first day, we also stopped at the American Aquatic Gardens on Esplanade. It's one of my favorite places in New Orleans. They have dozens of fountains operating, lots of ideas for garden décor, and some lovely and unusual interior items, too. Check them out here.

We ended the day at the Zea's restaurant in Gretna. Learn more about Zea's great food here.